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Spectacle Makers: An interview with Jaimus Tailor

Jaimus Tailor is the founder of Greater Goods, a design and making brand with an ethos of turning ‘nothing into something’. For his spectacle frame for London Design Festival, Jaimus designed a pair of multitool sunglasses, featuring pattern holes and a ruler, composed from acetate offcuts in true Greater Goods upcycling style. We talked to Jaimus about his design process, and the importance of making things physically.

Samples and patterns at Jaimus' Greater Goods studio.

C Tell us about Greater Goods. 

J Greater Goods was an extension of everything I like making and doing. I was interested in so many different avenues of design, graphics, carpentry, textiles, and I just didn't have an umbrella to put that under. So it became this vessel for everything I make.

I initially studied graphic design. But I loved making things in my hands. So then I went into bit of carpentry after university. Initially Greater Goods was woodwork. I was finding stuff in my local area, making benches and tables, and then selling them locally. But the space and machinery I needed was crazy, and London’s so cramped. So I learned how to sew. My second name’s Tailor, so I thought I’d give it a go, and I fell in love with it.

C Do you get more out of making something physically, with your hands?

J For me, making something physically is more rewarding. I might start with a blank piece of fabric and I finish the day with a physical bag or a garment. Whereas graphic design, I would start on my laptop, not finish on my laptop like nothing ever existed from it. I still love graphic design, but I get a different sense of reward from making something physical.

That’s how I learn, by physically doing something. That’s how I learnt the leather work for this project. It was my first proper time doing traditional leathercraft, but I wanted to give it a go.

From sketch to final frame.

C Tell us about that process, of taking up a new skill for this project.

J When this project came up, I wanted to make a case of some kind, which was a great reason to give leather craft a go. I bought the basic tools. A lot of trial and error, a lot of like using blunt blades by accident. But it's such a logical way of working that sticks to that. It's a very logical process. When I start something new and I'm not an expert, there's no pressure. There's no expectation to be good when you're doing this the first time.

It's a nice break from textiles and finishing the seams nicely and making sure things that are hidden. With leatherwork, it's all exposed. What you see is what you get, which I really like.

C That’s a common theme in the stuff you make. Seeing the process on the outside. Is that an important part of it?

J Definitely. My background isn't textiles or sewing, and I try to show that anyone can make things. The DIY approach has been lost in the modern world, especially in a big city like London. You can just buy everything. But there's nothing like making something for yourself from the ground up.

I always use the analogy being in the kitchen. Everyone enjoys food, but there’s a divide with the amount of people that will go into a kitchen and make something. I see it the same with textiles. I like clothing, so I should give it a go in terms of making it and it's very accessible. You buy a sewing machine, and you can make whatever you put your mind to.

At home on Jaimus' Vitra wall organiser.

A key-wallet to accompany the frame, made with Jaimus' newfound leatherwork skills.

C Designing a pair of spectacles, that's something a bit different.

J It is, but it was pretty, straightforward in my brain what I wanted to do. I like that utilitarian approach. I always have a multitool on me. Outside of the studio it's definitely like my most used tool.

I was like, What's always on me? Glasses. I wear my glasses all the time. My sunglasses are always on my bag. imagine that's merged with a multitool and it becomes these Swiss Army knife sunglasses. It just made sense. I wanted it to be hyper functional, hence adding all these different tools, but I wanted it to still be a functioning pair of sunglasses. I didn't want to push it to just an object.

Seeing the workshop process was incredible. I tell a lot of friends about how hands-on the workshop is at Cubitts. We don't see any of that in the final pair of spectacles. You just see the end result. So seeing it being CNC cut from a block, hand shaped, polished, tumbled for hours and hours, it's incredible to see. And I think a lot of people won't understand how much work goes into one pair of glasses. It's all behind the scenes. That helped my design process a lot more because I could understand how my sketches could be actually made.

C Did you know specifically you wanted to use the acetate offcuts? 

J For sure. That's in the nature of myself and Greater Goods. If something's going to waste, why not use it? It's still functional, it still looks good. It takes away a bit of control too, because you can only use what's available. 

My first few products for Greater Goods were using jackets to make bags. If I happened to get a black jacket, then it's a black bag. I like letting go of control a bit. Here, we only had what's in that bin of offcuts, and that allowed us to create the tiled effect.

C The auction is in support of the creative arts charity, Create. Is there a link for you between creating and your mental wellbeing?

J I've always needed to have to be making something. When days or maybe weeks go by and I’ve not made something it affects me. I need that process of sitting down, being quiet, and just going from start to finish with a project. The mental benefits of it—it’s like therapy for me. Watching a project change and evolve—problem solving as you go along—those are skills that are transferable. It teaches you a lot of patience and learning on the go problem solving. There's nothing better than learning a new skill and sewing is so accessible for that.

C Thank you.

J Thanks.